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New York City might not be known for its cherry blossoms like D. Located mid-park at 72nd Street, this area overlooks the Lake with the iconic view of the San Remo in the background and turns into a pale-pink wonderland every spring. Riverside Park The stretch of Riverside Park between th and th Streets has been named Cherry Walk for its collection of cherry blossoms. The surviving trees of the original planting ofpart of the same batch of trees planted in Washington, D. Cherry Walk closed last year for improvements, but it reopened this past January.

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With a Brooklyn-like fealty to origin, it sources its matcha directly from an independent family farm in Nishio, Japan. Here a Japanese-speaking server whisks the matcha in pottery bowls with a chasen, or bamboo whisk, much as the Japanese have done for centuries for the formal tea ceremony. For decades, to be a tea lover in the United States was to wander in a wasteland.

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Back in Manhattan, Ippodo, a branch of a renowned Kyoto tea exporter, offers a serene alternative. In fact, said Richard Betts, a master wine sommelier and friend of Mr. Just as wine varies depending on where, how and when the grapes are grown and processed, tea varies with elevation, leaf size, soil quality, origin and age.

They are made, he explained, by a small green insect called a leafhopper. Online tea purveyors and tea salons offer a dazzling range of loose leaf teas from around the world, sponsor tea preparation classes and sell artisan teaware.

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As with wine, it is easy to spend hours tasting and talking. As he deftly poured, steeped, discarded and resteeped, he provided a guided tour of tea, describing how it is grown, picked, processed and tasted. Chain-store tea salons are appearing across the country, too: InStarbucks bought Teavana, which has stores in the United States.

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Picking up the steeped leaves, he pointed to bite marks. Beckwith, an engaging, unpretentious and encyclopedic tea maven, presides over tea tastings in a spare, serene apartment and office in the Flatiron district. Even the leafhoppers in oolong have analogues to botrytis, the fungus linked to great Bordeaux. One recent morning, he set out the elements of a Chinese style of tea service known as gong fu cha: a slatted wooden tea tray to catch excess water and tea, a lidded dish called a gaiwan for steeping, a pitcher to hold the steeped tea, and a few small porcelain teacups.

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The shop was packed one recent Sunday with a young crowd, drinking tea and hanging out. Many can remember the moment they realized drinking tea could go beyond black tea bags. And for Sebastian Beckwith, a tea importer, it came while shepherding tourists around the tea plantations of Bhutan and Sikkim when he served as an adventure travel guide.

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The bites expose that part of the leaf to air, changing its chemistry and giving the resulting tea a distinctive sweetness that has traces of honey. At each stage, the smell of the leaves and the taste of the tea changed, much as wine changes character as it sits in the glass, exposed to air.

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Weil was 17 when he visited Japan in and discovered sencha and matcha. Pierra Cheung, gentle and authoritative, pours tea from a gaiwan in a room decorated with Chinese paintings and glass cases of prized teaware that can run hundreds of dollars or, in some cases, thousands.

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At Eleven Madison, Mr. Day has adapted the same gong fu style of tea serving to the more formal and less leisurely demands of a restaurant. For Christopher Day, who runs the tea program at Eleven Madison Park, the epiphany was a sip of rose tea in a Chinese apothecary on a back street in Philadelphia.

When Mr. Day first met Mr. Beckwith, who supplies Eleven Madison Park with many of its teas, they drank samples until a.

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Day began one of the earliest restaurant tea programs in New York City inwhile working at RM, with the chef Rick Moonen, and started the tea service nearly five years ago at Eleven Madison, where he is the dining room manager. On one wall is an oak pharmacy chest with dozens of small drawers containing tea samples. In a side room, he set up five types of oolong, ranging in styles from lightly to more fully oxidized or more aggressively roasted, steeping them multiple times.

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On the other, a glass container of water supplies his bubbling teapot. For many restaurateurs in New York, the guide to these nuances has been Mr. Beckwith, who founded In Pursuit of Tea in and now supplies more than restaurants, a that he said has accelerated in the last year. Matcha in particular is in vogue; the frothy powdered Japanese green tea is featured at shops like MatchaBar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

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No longer. He has created the opposite experience with his tableside tastings, where a waiter wheels out a cart with the same basic equipment as Mr. But there are as many settings to enjoy great tea in New York as there are tea varieties. Beckwith set out an oolong, a partly oxidized tea prized by enthusiasts for its complexity of flavors.

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Even as Americans discovered fine coffee, with specialty coffee shops springing up across the country and debates over the merits of pour-over and cold brew, tea remained a largely pedestrian choice among mass-produced brands. Customers trust their palates more, he believes, and so they are asking for higher quality tea.

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